A dovetail joint is the second alternate. And easiest to cut, but not as powerful as others, is your half-lap joint. Against crushable wood like redwood, use a large, flat washer using the nut and bolt.
Do not use a screen-door spring nearer! There is just too much strain on them; slamming will cause the gate to wrack and vibrate apart right away. The simplest solution is to forgo automated gate closers completely–just close the gate behind you.
An early solution (still used most picturesquely in Colonial Williamsburg) is a burden on a chain. Regardless of what the final mechanism or the sort of latch used, including a stop piece the complete height of the gate is quite important. If the swinging gate is stopped against the pole just at the latch point, it is going to wrack every time it closes.
Set gate articles in a concrete encasement typically 3 times the width of the post. Use post anchors where termites are common, or in very moist soils. A general guideline would be to sink a third of the complete length of this pole into the ground (two-thirds above grade). Cap post shirts, or bevel-cut the shirts to shed water.
Whitewash and translucent stain can be touched up and do not peel. Untreated cedar and redwood weather to a natural grey.
Use latches and hinges intended for outside use, with unfussy mechanics that will tolerate misalignment. Bronze hardware for outside use is now available. Brass hardware, available at sea suppliers, won’t corrode, and you can paint it if you want.
All people who have houses or ground floor apartments with backyards and gardens, require a fence. Based upon the value of the exterior, and your private option, there are various kinds of fences. It provides a look, exteriors to the home, and not only protects the home and marks a border for your house, but supplies the privacy. People today use fences for producing landscapes around the home, in the backyard, the outside, on the pool decks, patios, etc..